Walter Speller, corrispondente in Italia e stretto collaboratore di Jancis Robinson, Master of Wine tra le più influenti al mondo, ha recentemente assaggiato e recensito alcune delle nostre etichette più rappresentative.
Dal Verdicchio al Conero, questo incontro è stata un’occasione per riassaggiare anche alcune delle vecchie annate di Vecchie Vigne e Campo San Giorgio, entrambi recensiti con punteggi molto favorevoli.
Di seguito le recensioni complete.
Casal di Serra Classico Superiore 2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
"A selection of the best organically grown Verdicchio grapes from the Montecarotto vineyard. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel. MLF was suppressed. Aged on the lees for five months in stainless steel. Straw yellow. Pressed lemon nose with notes of wet stone and a suggestion of the pine-like aroma of rosemary. Mandarin, lemon and grapefruit palate. Gorgeous
freshness and light of touch yet long. Almost a little steely. A steal. VGV (WS)"
Umani Ronchi, Vecchie Vigne Classico Superiore 2018 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
"100% Verdicchio from an organically certified vineyard planted in the 1970s. Fermented in stainless-steel tanks at a controlled temperature of 16–18 °C. The wine did not undergo MLF. Aged in concrete tanks for nine months and on the fine lees, followed by another six months in bottle. Straw yellow. Savoury yellow-fruit nose with iodine and breadcrumb notes. At first a
little neutral but truly unfurls on the palate. Savoury yellow fruit rolling over into minerally grapefruit and lemon and quince. Long and focused. (WS)."
Umani Ronchi, Plenio Classico Riserva 2018 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
"100% Verdicchio, grown in a vineyard in Cupramontana at 400 m above sea level. 60% of the grapes were fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, the balance in 50-hl oak casks. About 10–15% of the total volume of the wine undergoes MLF. Aged on the fine lees for 12 months in concrete and stainless-steel tanks, followed by six months in bottle.
Intense straw yellow. A little richer and more voluminous on the nose than the Vecchie Vigne of the same vintage. Ripe quince and mandarin with a suggestion of honeycomb and breadcrumbs. Lemon and mandarin fruit that is a little racy andwith a savoury minerally and orange-pith notes on the finish. Great length. (WS)"
Umani Ronchi, Vecchie Vigne Classico Superiore 2013 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
"100% Verdicchio, grown in the Casal di Serra vineyard in Montecarotto at 350 m above sea level and where the vines are 45 years old.
Deep yellow, like a sweet wine. Classy nose of wet stones, quince paste, lemon rind and savoury, iodine notes. Energetic lemon and satsuma start and then waxy mandarin with a hint of almonds and saltiness on the finish. (WS)"
Umani Ronchi, Cúmaro Riserva 2016 Conero
"100% Montepulciano spontaneously fermented in stainless steel where it also undergoes MLF. It was aged for 12–14 months in barriques. Deep lustrous ruby. Savoury-sweet oak nose with brooding dark fruit and hints of meat. The oak takes a big step back on the palate only adding a light dustiness to the cherry fruit. Bitter-sweet, powdery tannins add depth and soft grip to the fruit on the juicy finish. An international mould, which it more than manages to rise above. (WS)"
Umani Ronchi, Campo San Giorgio Riserva 2016 Conero
100% Montepulciano from three parcels in the single vineyard Campo San Giorgio located in the village of Osimo, ‘foglio 18, parcelle 63, 500 and 503’. You can’t get your description of origin more precise than that! Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel with a tiny portion of whole bunches. It was aged for 12 months in barriques, followed by 12 months in large oak casks. The wine remained unfined and unfiltered. Very deep ruby. Gorgeous, mature nose indicating this wine has just arrived at its plateau, at which time it was released so wine lovers can tuck straight in without waiting for years, although this will hold. Has a Sangiovese characteristic about it with a ripe, lively sour-cherry nose, tobacco leaf and spice. Super-elegant yet concentrated velvety supple red-fruit palate lined with fine tannins. I simply don't understand why people bang on about Pinot Noir and overlook gems at a fraction of the price, like this. But if this wine continues at this quality, Campo San Giorgio will turn more and more heads. I would have just released it a tiny bit earlier. (WS)
Umani Ronchi, Campo San Giorgio Riserva 2010 Conero
100% Montepulciano, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel with a tiny portion of whole bunches. Aged for 12 months in barriques, followed by 12 months in large oak casks. The wine remained unfined and unfiltered. Impenetrably dark with an almost black core. A very pretty wine that demonstrates that the normally vapid Conero denomination has real relevance, provided one pays attention to it. This is a fine, velvety wine with super-fine tannins and a vein of acidity that gives it energy. Elegant palate weight. No signs of oxidation or progressed maturation. Unostentatious. It demonstrates eloquently that there is nothing rustic about Montepulciano, and it still has a long life ahead of it. Will beat many an overpriced Pinot Noir. Beautiful label, spot-on packaging. Highly recommended. (WS)
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