Monica Larner, corrispondente italiana per The Wine Advocate, che descrive un’Italia del vino “sempre migliore” e dalle mille voci come i suoi vitigni e i suoi dialetti, racconta in un lungo articolo la sua tappa nelle Marche, e dedica uno speciale “reportage" alla nostra azienda e ai nostri vini, con un intervento di Michele Bernetti sull’andamento climatico che ha caratterizzato i millesimi degustati.
L’incontro dà vita ad una degustazione profonda e avvincente che si conclude con punteggi importanti. Dai vini icona del Conero, al Verdicchio, fino alle selezioni d’Abruzzo, la giornalista di Robert Parker, riferimento mondiale della critica enologica, riconosce un lavoro meticoloso in vigna e in cantina e una cura quasi maniacale su tutti i vini degustati. Tra i punteggi assegnati, spiccano il Campo San Giorgio 2016 e il Pelago 2016, che hanno ottenuto rispettivamente 95 e 94+ punti. Il Vecchie Vigne 2018 si è aggiudicato invece 93 punti, così come il Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Centovie 2015.
Leggeteli uno ad uno, e non perdete l'intervista con Monica Larner e Michele Bernetti sul canale Instagram di The Wine Advocate -> @wine_advocate.
Campo San Giorgio 2016 -> 95 punti
The Umani Ronchi 2016 Conero Riserva Campo San Giorgio is the estate's headline wine and a pure expression of the Montepulciano grape that underlines purity, length and the staying power of the variety. This Riserva opens to tart cherry, cassis, spice, licorice and tar, offering a traditional and classic read of the Conero appellation in the Marche region that hangs over the blueness of the Adriatic Sea. This wine is polished and toned with bright berry flavors that segue to tar, licorice and grilled herb. It's perfect for a brasato alla marchigiana made with rolled up slices of braised beef and stuffed with prosciutto and pancetta. Production of this wine is 4,990 bottles and 85 magnums.
Casal di Serra 2019 -> 90 punti
The 2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore CaSal di Serra (made with organic fruit) shows a light and luminous appearance that appears shiny in the glass. The wine offers simple but exceptionally pure aromas of spring flower, citrus, cut grass and crushed limestone. It is lightweight, tart and fresh. It's the perfect match for a traditional dish of anchovy involtini. You don't get better value than this.
Centovie Pecorino 2018 -> 92 punti
The Pecorino grape is a variety that has enjoyed a steady climb in popularity over the past 10 years. This expression from Umani Ronchi really homes in on all the qualities that should prompt us to take a second look at this indigenous white grape from central Italy. The 2018 Pecorino Centovie opens to honeydew melon, citrus, pear and a touch of something almost spicy like saffron or crunchy like green apple. Pecorino delivers a point of firmness or structure that opens the wine up to a pairing with a spicy Thai chicken dish.
Vecchie Vigne 2018 -> 93 punti
Made with organic fruit, the Umani Ronchi 2018 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Vecchie Vigne is a very special wine that gives us a pure and transparent view onto the Verdicchio grape from old vines. The wine delivers a terrific sense of purity and depth, and it also hints at some of the compelling complexity that can be achieved when Verdicchio gets a little bit of age. Aromas of ripe peach, lemon drop and candied fruit make subtle appearances, and the wine continues with fresh fruit, light spice and crushed stone. Try it with the local seafood stew, brodetto marchigiano. This steady and beautifully intense wine is one I am happy to recommend, especially for enthusiasts of Italian whites.
Plenio 2017 -> 92 punti
Here's a great chance to make a platter of that Marche favorite, olive ascolane, or fried olives stuffed with meat. Sporting a modern and contemporary spin on the highly traditional and local Verdicchio grape, Umani Ronchi's 2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio opens to a luminous golden color with a rich, mid-weight texture. This wine sees its fruit sourced from the historic Cupramontana vineyard located at a breezy 400 meters in altitude. Forty percent of the wine is aged in Slavonian oak casks, and the rest goes into stainless steel and cement. Hot-vintage fruit produces aromas of dried peach, pear and toasted almond.
Cumaro 2016 -> 93 punti
This is a highly recognized wine that enjoys its own special following in Italy and beyond. The 2016 Conero Riserva Cúmaro is a pure expression of Montepulciano from the Conero bluffs that dip into the Adriatic Sea on a small promontory where sunshine and sea breezes caress the vines. Aged in French oak for 12 months, this wine is stacked tall and wide with dark fruit, sweet spice and cured tobacco. The wine is beautifully balanced, full and ripe. A classic Marchigiano lamb roast would pair nicely here.
Pelago 2016 -> 94+ punti
This wine is now celebrating its 22nd harvest. The Umani Ronchi 2016 Pelago is a blend of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot aged in French oak for 14 months. This is a wine with a deep core of dark fruit and a lot of stuffing that adds textural fiber and richness. Pelago shows a downright contemporary style that is expressed in terms of volume, softness and phenolic weight (or sheer grape concentration). This is a super Marche wine from start to finish, with black cherry, blackberry, soft spice, leather and tar. The 2016 vintage is especially rich and important. When you're ready to open it, sample it with wedges of an aged goat-milk caciotta.
Centovie Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2015 -> 93 punti
Made with organic fruit, the Umani Ronchi 2015 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Centovie is charming and rich, exuberant and pure all at the same time. The Montepulciano grape is known for its dark fruit intensity, rich palate and soft tannins. All these qualities are present in this wine along with extra richness and textual fiber. This red unfolds to the senses in clear and rich layers, with plum, blackberry, dried currant and spice. It would do nicely with a local lasagne incassate, made with both minced chicken and minced beef.