Robert Parker by Monica Larner. Focus on the Marche region and Verdicchio.
Monica Larner, the “Robert Parker – The Wine Advocate” Reviewer for Italy - journalist and profound storyteller of Italian wine in the world, has published a special feature dedicated to the Marche region and its Verdicchio, an extremely versatile indigenous grape variety with a great aging potential in the bottle.
“In the vast landscape of Italian white wines, Verdicchio from the Marche region stands out as one of the most promising. In the initial phase, it releases pleasant aromas of citrus, apple, and mineral notes. After ten years of aging in bottle, it unleashes fascinating notes of saffron or white pepper."
The article, written by one of the world's most influential wine critics, is the result of multiple journeys in the Marche region and various tastings that also involved our wines. "Italy Marche. A spotlight on Verdicchio. Robert Parker Wine Advocate"
We share Monica Larner's detailed report on Umani Ronchi's Verdicchio: Casal di Serra, Plenio, Vecchie Vigne (including old vintages), the tasting notes, scores, and the declared preference for the “Vecchie Vigne”, produced with the fruits from four hectares of vines planted in Montecarotto in 1971.
Vecchie Vigne 2020, 94+ pt
The organic Umani Ronchi 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Vecchie Vigne is one of the standout wines in this report. I love the vertical drive and energy supplied by this pretty white wine from old vines. The estate does not use the Riserva denomination on this line, but this wine would qualify as such. Fruit comes from a vineyard that was planted in 1971 in Montecarotto. The wine was rst made in 2001 (although the 2002 vintage was skipped), and the style saw more fruit maturity back then. Today, the aim is freshness, minerality and aromatic lift. I'd say that those goals are achieved in this beautiful wine.
Vecchie Vigne 2016, 94 pt
I had recently reviewed this wine, but it has certainly improved since my last tasting. This shows that Verdicchio can esh out and render more complexity in a relatively short time span. I am also enlarging the drinking window. The Umani Ronchi 2016 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne has preserved lemon, honey, canned peach and dried ginger. Some of that fruit has taken on an elegant nuttiness with almond and honey.
Casal di Serra 2021, 91 pt
This wine is most representative of the Umani Ronchi house style. Fruit is blended from two zones, Le Busche and San Sebastiano, from old vines on loose sand and clay soils. The 2021 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore CaSal di Serra is crisp and almost crunchy in texture with plenty of melon, unripe peach, aniseed and sage. It offers good structure and acidity too. This wine was rst produced in 1983.
Plenio 2020, 94 pt
Compared to the Vecchie Vigne, which is more vertical and direct in character, the Umani Ronchi 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio shows a richer and waxier textural character. Partially aged in oak, the wine plays its best cards in terms of mouthfeel with lasting avors of apricot, Golden Delicious apple and spicy saffron. Fruit is from Cupramontana at 400 meters in elevation and is usually the last parcel harvested each year.
Plenio 2010, 91 pt
Although I did prefer the 2008, the 2010 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio gives us a terric view onto the staying power of this native Marche grape. This vintage delivers extra fruit weight with candied fruit, grilled herb, toasted bread and a darker mineral tone of pencil shaving. The bouquet is very nicely integrated, but it does remain on the neutral side. This wine is more open-knit and soft compared to 2008.
Plenio 2008, 93 pt
Here's a back vintage that shows lots of energy and personality. The Umani Ronchi 2008 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio delivers aromas of pressed ower, white fruit and even a hint of mint or rosemary. The mouthfeel is creamy with mid-weight intensity, but the minerality gives freshness and precision to this very transparent and well-aged Verdicchio.